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Workshop – Rhodium Plating 2

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Final Part

In this two part look at rhodium plating, Andrew takes you through the steps involved to ensure a perfect plating is obtained every time.

Pure gold is yellow. To make white gold, other alloys have to be added to the pure gold as the alloying ingredient in the gold. This makes the alloy look ‘white’ but most white gold is not bright enough for today’s taste (which seems to demand a diamond-like glitter) so it is rhodium plated for a truly shiny look.
As the item is worn, so the plating wears off or if the item is repaired then the plating is burned or polished away. To ensure a perfect finish on the rhodium plating it is vital that the item is cleaned and the surface is prepared to accept the plating.

Workshop – Rhodium Plating 1

Click to Watch

Part One of Two

In this two part look at rhodium plating, Andrew takes you through the steps involved to ensure a perfect plating is obtained every time.

Pure gold is yellow. To make white gold, other alloys have to be added to the pure gold as the alloying ingredient in the gold. This makes the alloy look ‘white’ but most white gold is not bright enough for today’s taste (which seems to demand a diamond-like glitter) so it is rhodium plated for a truly shiny look.
As the item is worn, so the plating wears off or if the item is repaired then the plating is burned or polished away. To ensure a perfect finish on the rhodium plating it is vital that the item is cleaned and the surface is prepared to accept the plating.

Intermediate Repairs – Replacing a Claw Part 2

How to replace a claw
A client has brought in to Andrew a large rectangular cut Blue Topaz ring to have a claw replaced.

This ring only has 4 claws due to the cut of the stone so it is important to replace a claw as soon as it becomes worn or snaps off. This sized setting is ideal to work on if you are new to retipping due to the size of the claws and the fact that the claws are far appart. When working on any type of settings please clean the setting BEFORE working on it so that the dirt and grime does not get burnt onto the gold or silver.

Intermediate Repairs – Retipping using Solder

Retipping claws prongs
Claw set rings, over the years, receive a lot of wear. The thinner the claw the less there is to wear away. Providing that some of the claw is still covering the stone it is possible to build up the top of the claw with solder that corresponds to the carat and colour of the claw itself.

In this 15 minute film, Andrew shows you how to handle your torch so you can direct the heat to allow the solder to flow only on the tip of the claw. This type of repair is only suitable on small claws though.br>

Intermediate Repairs – Replacing a Claw Part 1

How to replace a claw
A client has brought in to Andrew a large rectangular cut Blue Topaz ring to have a claw replaced.

This ring only has 4 claws due to the cut of the stone so it is important to replace a claw as soon as it becomes worn or snaps off. This sized setting is ideal to work on if you are new to retipping due to the size of the claws and the fact that the claws are far appart. When working on any type of settings please clean the setting BEFORE working on it so that the dirt and grime does not get burnt onto the gold or silver.

Repairs – Adding an Ear Wire

Soldering an Ear Wire

With the constant bending of ear wires as they are worn every day, its no wonder they end up breaking .

Andrew Berry shows you why the ear wire has broken off and what can be done to ensure at the wire will not break off again. The wire is resoldered as there is no chance of obtaining a new single ear wire to match the old one.

Repairs – Sizing Down a White Gold Ring

sizing down a white gold ring

Sizing down a ring seems straight forward enough but there are tell tale signs you have to look out for to avoid trouble.

Dont rush into cutting pieces out of rings to resize them without seeing if the ring has been resized before. Andrew also shows you how to use a shank bender as he has trouble easing the ring back round again.

Bezel Setting a Diamond

bezel setting a diamond

Setting stones into bezels is becoming popular due to bold designs that are coming onto the market.

Its not often you see a diamond bezel set but this ring was purchased abroad where this design is popular. Unfortunately, whilst swimming, Andrew’s client lost the diamond. In this film you see him chose the correct size diamond and reset it.

Repairs – Soldering a Hollow Anchor Chain

soldering a hollow anchor style chain

With the manufacturers now producing more hollow chains, a slightly different technique is needed.

Hollow chains can be tricky to solder. They seem to trap all the dirt and muck within the links so by putting a flame on the links straight away will result in a burnt blackened link. Clean the chain first before you start work on it.